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	<title>Comments on: My Track Plan</title>
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	<description>Stories about building my model railroad and other things found along the tracks</description>
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		<title>By: ANDREW</title>
		<link>http://www.polyweb.com/dans_rr/blog/index.php/archives/14/comment-page-1#comment-14881</link>
		<dc:creator>ANDREW</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:17:53 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Thanks for the reply, I am thinking about cutting the vertical clearance even more and adding kevlar (60 pound fishing &quot;firewire&quot; strands) epoxied to the bottom of the roadbed for additional stiffnes and rigidity</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the reply, I am thinking about cutting the vertical clearance even more and adding kevlar (60 pound fishing &#8220;firewire&#8221; strands) epoxied to the bottom of the roadbed for additional stiffnes and rigidity</p>
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		<title>By: Daniel Swearingen</title>
		<link>http://www.polyweb.com/dans_rr/blog/index.php/archives/14/comment-page-1#comment-14140</link>
		<dc:creator>Daniel Swearingen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jul 2007 00:31:29 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>&lt;p&gt;ANDREW Says:&lt;br /&gt;
July 28th, 2007 at 1:43 pm e&lt;br /&gt;
Great web site. I am also adapting Malcolm’s layout to a 9′x11′ using standard ho equipment (did not think I could afford the HOn3 stuff, and now that mdc/roundhouse is out of the picture — $$$$$$). I’m a first time builder, collected lots of MDC cars shorter than 40′ with small loco’s. My plan includes (2) 18″ radius helix, 2.75% grade, am I nuts? (your honest opinion would be helpful).&lt;br /&gt;
Andrew&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;DAN WRITES:&lt;br /&gt;
Hi Andrew,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Your plan sounds like a great way to go. If you strive to keep cars 40’ and shorter the trains you make will look long (and run well). I admit those modern 90’ car stacks are cool but that’s as long as three 30-footers. I plan on lots of short cars and 50-foot passenger cars. Engines are 4-4-0, 4-6-0, and 2-8-0’s.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The helixes are a good way to go too. My only advice is making sure you can stand up inside the helix to clean the track. If there’s a mountain above it you may need to make it so you can lift it out. &lt;/p&gt;
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		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>ANDREW Says:<br />
July 28th, 2007 at 1:43 pm e<br />
Great web site. I am also adapting Malcolm’s layout to a 9′x11′ using standard ho equipment (did not think I could afford the HOn3 stuff, and now that mdc/roundhouse is out of the picture — $$$$$$). I’m a first time builder, collected lots of MDC cars shorter than 40′ with small loco’s. My plan includes (2) 18″ radius helix, 2.75% grade, am I nuts? (your honest opinion would be helpful).<br />
Andrew</p>
<p>DAN WRITES:<br />
Hi Andrew,</p>
<p>Your plan sounds like a great way to go. If you strive to keep cars 40’ and shorter the trains you make will look long (and run well). I admit those modern 90’ car stacks are cool but that’s as long as three 30-footers. I plan on lots of short cars and 50-foot passenger cars. Engines are 4-4-0, 4-6-0, and 2-8-0’s.</p>
<p>The helixes are a good way to go too. My only advice is making sure you can stand up inside the helix to clean the track. If there’s a mountain above it you may need to make it so you can lift it out. </p>
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